Hello hello hello
It’s officially been a year since my first ever blog post on recipeforprocrastination! And in the spirit of celebration, I’ve returned to my roots and have been squeezing every single possible ounce of deliciousness out of a couple of ducks.*
As I am currently awaiting the start of my new job, I am due to have some visitors next week, including my mum and family friend Elaine. This means I’ve got to try and cook something spectactular for their visit. Whole ducks were on offer at the supermarket, and it seemed like a great excuse to buy a couple whilst I still had access to a staff discount card!
Why two ducks? Because there will be four of us and I plan to serve a breast each. As a packet of two duck breasts cost £7 and the whole bird was £8 (with 10% discount taking it to £7.20) it was an absolute no brainer to buy whole ducks instead.
Once I got home, I butchered the ducks (see this post for how I did it). The livers were separated from the giblets and put in the freezer (along with some other duck liver and rabbit liver which are currently sitting in there) and the breasts were also frozen. Unfortunately, that more or less exhausted all of my freezer space, and I still had the legs and the carcass to deal with.
The carcass was easy – I roasted the bones, along with the giblets and excess skin, until they had browned and the fat had started to run (roasting both improves the flavour of the stock and makes the duck fat useable). The fat was poured into a tub for later use, and everything else was put in the slow cooker with a couple of carrots, a bit of leftover fennel (from my rabbit meal the other day) and topped up with water. I cooked on low for several hours, in order to make a delicious smelling stock (see this post for my basic method). Now, with the frequency that I make stock I had assumed that I knew everything there was to know about it. However, recently I have started doing a few new things.
- Using the slow cooker rather than the hob makes a lot of sense because for one thing, the likelihood of it boiling dry is more or less nil and for another, I can leave it on overnight or while I’m out of the house.
- I’ve discovered that you can re-use the same bones when you make stock, up until the point that they basically crumble. Chicken carcasses will only last for a couple of batches, but duck carcasses appear to be a little more resilient.
- Adding a couple of spoons of vinegar to stock will improve its mineral content. Did you ever do that thing in science where you soaked a chicken bone in vinegar until it turned rubbery? That’s because the acidity of the vinegar encourages the calcium to leach out. Calcium’s good for you, and you can’t taste the vinegar in the end product, so this small addition is a great idea.
- Reducing the stock down concentrates the flavour and takes up less storage space. This is an obvious one, but I’d never really thought about it until looking through the Ballymaloe Cookery Course book (yes, I know I mention that one a lot, but it really is a manual as well as just a recipe book). Since I’ve started reducing my stocks, they’ve got better and better.
I do declare that the duck stock I currently have on the go is the best I’ve ever made. It smells incredible, and just tastes of liquid duck. It’s so gelatinous that it’s basically set hard in the fridge and I’m really looking forward to using it.
I still had to deal with the pesky legs though, as I couldn’t use them immediately, but didn’t have any room in the freezer for them. Enter confit duck. I’ve not made it for a while, and this time I actually had nearly enough fat to completely cover the meat. I used primarily duck fat, but also some bacon fat from my carbonara and a roast gammon we cooked recently (both of which came from A Man’s dad’s pigs). The confit duck legs are currently sitting in a casserole dish in my fridge, submerged in fat and covered with a lid. See this post for my confit duck method.
So there we have it. I can cook stuff for a whole year, and still I’ll return to the same old things again and again. Nothing much changes. I’ll probably start hanging back on the food blog front now (I’m sure you’ve noticed me starting to slack off over the past couple of months already). I start my new job on 29th October and will have less time to cook, and a lot of my free time is being taken up by wedding planning now. I’ll pop back now and then though, if only when I manage particularly unusual or beautiful food. It’s been fun though!
Massive huge love
*As a side note, the duck thing was honestly completely unintentional – it just happened that way! It did amuse me when I realised my first post was about duck, I checked and it happened to be a year ago. Perhaps it’s providence (or more likely, I guess this time of year must be prime for special offers on ducks).